Vesper Peak, North Face, September 26, 2004

The North Face of Vesper is a classic moderate alpine rock route located near the Mountain Loop highway, and features many pitches of fantastic, clean granite crack and slab climbing. It is guarded by a fairly long approach for a route of its length - around 3 hours or more to the base of the route, almost entirely uphill. Although this is similar to soemthing like Ingalls Peak, the approach to Vesper is far more strenuous. However, even so Vesper is still a fine summer-time day trip. I had climbed this route once before with friend Dennis in 2000, however it seemed like a fine objective for Kevin and myself, looking to get out for a day in the mountains. Despite its approach, this is a route worth repeating. We started from the trailhead and made our way through the early morning fog and low-lying clouds to Headlee Pass, across from MorningStar Peak. Headlee Pass is above 4800 feet, already several steep thousand feet from the trailhead. Here one traverse across a high basin to below the white granite slopes of the East slopes of Vesper, and climbs yet more slopes to a col overlooking the glacial remnant and Copper Lake. Behind, the steep flanks of Sperry rear up, and ahead are the reddish slopes of the South side of Big Four. Dropping down onto the glacier proved much more difficult now in late September than it had in July 2000, the snow had receded significantly and jumbled glacier guarded the approach to the regular start for the North Face route. Seeing this, we traverse lower and further to an alternate start we picked out, and reached the rock fairly easily despite a large moat. We broke out the 70m rope and rack and prepared for our route.

North Face of Vesper, from the col above the glacier.

I lead the first pitch, which featured mostly very-run-out 4th class climbing with short sections of mid-fifth. While the climbing was moderate, protection was sparse. I belayed in the only place I could find around the 70m mark, Kevin next lead another pitch up the steepening rock, finding some fairly airy 5.8 climbing near the end of his pitch, but with some decent protection. When I started the next lead, the choice was either some steep, mossy and poorly protected going directly up, or to switch crack systems and move up and left. I chose the latter, doing a difficult 5.7 mantle right off the belay with no pro, but the rest of the pitch went fairly smoothly and at 70m I had reached the grassy third-class section that marks the middle of the route, and belayed Kevin up on some bushes and small trees.

The third-class section is easy climbing, but fairly long, perhaps 2-3 pitches worth. It might be more efficient to coil your rope than to drag it through the bushes and heather, but we opted to short rope this section. Before long we stood at the base of the huge granite slab for which Vesper is famous.

The first pitch is pure granite friction climbing, with little or no pro, for 60 meters to a belay in a corner above a small overlap. In order for the ropes to reach the belay, you should start from the highest point below the slab. There is little to belay from here, though, so be cautious. While not absolutely necessary for the route, rock shoes or slippers make especially this pitch seem more manageable.

The rest of the climb now follows either the huge corner or a large wandering crack and ramp system directly to its right for two pitches. Both options are about the same difficulty and do not require rock shoes to climb, so if you make it this far and the weather is threatening, your easiest way is up at this point.

Once you top out on the slab, you are only 100 feet away from the summit! Put your climbing gear away, meander up to the exposed summit, and enjoy the (completely downhill) hike back to the car!