- Castle Rock - Fault / Catapult / Bone / S Face of Jello Tower / Midway Direct
- What It Is: At the very top of the list is this 6-pitch trad line on fantastic clean granite at Castle Rock, which offers 6 pitches of climbing equal in quality to any climb in Washington, with an incredibly short approach and great climbing. I think this route is better than Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall.
What Can I Expect: Traditionally protected climbing to 5.9, steep and exposed in places, starting from the very lowest point of Lower Castle and ending on its summit.
Where Its At: Its at Castle Rock, in Tumwater Canyon just outside of Leavenworth, WA, about two hours drive North and East of Seattle.
What You Need: A traditional rack to 3". The descent is a walk-off.
Season: March through October.
More Information: Route information in Leavenworth Rock, by Victor Kramar. - Icicle Canyon - Heart of Gold / Prime Rib
- What It Is: A 5-pitch tour-de-force of Leavenworth slabbery at its finest, this route takes you up the left side of Duty Dome and finishes up the left side of Warrior Wall to its top. It is one of the longest routes in the Leavenworth area, that isnt found on Snow Creek Wall.
What Can I Expect: High quality slab climbing to 5.10a/b, mostly bolt-protected, topped off with a mixed pitch of traditionally-protected crack and more slab climbing. By the end of this route your fingertips will have gotten a work-out, if the rest of you hasn't!
Where Its At: The route starts at the left side of Duty Dome, in Icicle Canyon just outside of Leavenworth, WA, about two and a half hours drive North and East of Seattle.
What You Need: Draws and a traditional rack to 3". The descent is a walk-off.
Season: The climb faces south, and one can climb the route on sunny warm days even in very early spring, mid-February through October.
More Information:Route information and pictures/topo in Leavenworth Rock, by Victor Kramar. - Static Point - Online
- What It Is: Online is a beautiful 6 pitch pure friction granite slab climb that gets progressivly harder the higher you go. If you have not climbed at Staic yet, I suggest you make the trip for this and other routes. Truly classic, a little run-out, on some of the most grippy granite you will ever climb.
What Can I Expect: Pretty casual romp up slabs to the final two pitches, which have some real moves that protect well, up to 5.10a.
Where Its At: Its at Static Point, a 1000 foot granite dome outside of Sultan, WA, about an hour drive North and East of Seattle.
What You Need: Mostly draws, but a few small cams will help on the first and fourth pitches. Two ropes to get down.
Season: March through October.
More Information: Topo, approach and route information in Washington Rock, by Jeff Smoot. - Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running
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- What It Is: Silent Running is a 7-pitch classic steep granite slab climb on Three O'Clock Rock.
What Can I Expect: Classic, casual climbing on a very well-protected route, recently retro-bolted, up to 5.9.
Where Its At: Its at Three O'Clock Rock, a large granite dome South of Darrington, WA, about an hour and a half drive North and a little East of Seattle.
What You Need: Quickdraws and one or two small TCUs for good measure.
Season: March through October.
More Information: Both Jim Nelson and Jeff Smoot cover this route in their guidebooks. Jim Nelson's pictures are mislabeled, but his topos are correct. Smoots topos are not as detailed, but once on route you wont need topos. - What It Is: Silent Running is a 7-pitch classic steep granite slab climb on Three O'Clock Rock.
- Goat Wall - Methow Inspiration Route
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- What It Is: The Methow Inspiration Route is 5-pitch moderate and modern clip-up on Goat Wall.
What Can I Expect: Easy and pleasant climbing, relatively uneventful for the first several pitches, but a classic final 5.8 pitch makes it time well spent. Don't make the drive from Seattle just for this route, but if you get rained out of the mountains, come on over to Mazama and give it a go!
Where Its At: Goat Wall is located outside of Mazama, WA, accessed from the more populous areas of Washington by the North Cascades Highway (State Rt 20). The highway is closed in winter, and typically opens in March or April.
What You Need: Quickdraws.
Season: April through November.
More Information: A fine topo is published in Bryan Burdo's North Cascades Rock. He is a little overzealous on the ratings of the crux pitches, but that should boost your confidence. - What It Is: The Methow Inspiration Route is 5-pitch moderate and modern clip-up on Goat Wall.
- Snow Creek Wall - Orbit
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- What It Is: A classic, traditional line up one of the state's most well known rock formations. Orbit is an interesting experience: while its more famous neighbor Outer Space is famous for its jamming pitches that breach the Snow Creek Wall headwall, Orbit has little crack climbing at all.
What Can I Expect: Interesting climbing, well-protected to 5.9, that leads to an easy but insane pitch of chickenheads to the top.
Where Its At: Snow Creek Wall is located in the Icicle Canyon, outside Leavenworth, about a 2.5 hour drive from Seattle.
What You Need: A decent rack through #3 camalot. There are a select few bolts on the route, but it is mostly protected by trad gear.
Season: March through October.
More Information: Almost every guidebook published on rock climbing in the state of Washington covers this route. It is very popular, arrive early to avoid crowds. - What It Is: A classic, traditional line up one of the state's most well known rock formations. Orbit is an interesting experience: while its more famous neighbor Outer Space is famous for its jamming pitches that breach the Snow Creek Wall headwall, Orbit has little crack climbing at all.
- Condor Buttress - Condorphamine Addiction
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- What It Is:Condorphamine Addiction is a relatively new and modern 3-4 pitch clip-up.
What Can I Expect:Casual climbing on a somewhat over-protected route, with outstanding views of the Stuart Range and the Icicle Canyon. The climb gets better as you go higher, though there are a few thought provoking moves down lower.
Where Its At:Condor Buttress is in the Icicle Canyon outside Leavenworth. You can use any of the published guides to get to the base of Condor Buttress. The route is not yet published, but is obvious. Start up the middle of three bolted lines from the right side of the buttress, and keep climbing until you get to the top!
What You Need:Quickdraws.
Season:Almost year round.
More Information: Leavenworth Rock, by Viktor Kramar. When I first climbed it, I used Viktor Kramars old guide to get me to the base, and then I climbed the obvious route. - What It Is:Condorphamine Addiction is a relatively new and modern 3-4 pitch clip-up.
Alex Krawarik leading the crux pitch on Offline, Static Point, May 2001 Photo courtesy Chuck Spiekerman