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We got up at dawn and starting walking in to one of the greatest climbs
of the summer! A pleasant walk by several lakes eventually led to
frozen snowfields which we followed to frozen lakes higher.
The final slopes to the base of the route took a long time due to
variable snow, already softening in the morning sun. Another party
was on the route already, but they stayed well ahead. From our notes:
| Pitch |
Leader |
Length |
Description |
| 1 |
Michael |
50 m |
Led up a 5.7 crack with many flakes to a right-trending groove, then to a
belay among big flakes. Had to downclimb a bit after a wrong turn.
|
| 2 |
Aidan |
55 m |
After a false start around the corner on the right, came back and went up
5.7 flakes to easy 5th class to the crest. Nice belay ledge in the sun.
|
| 3 |
Michael |
55 m |
Exposed 5.4 step around to the right, then 4th class to a big ledge.
|
| 4 |
Aidan |
55 m |
4th class ledges and ramps led right then back left to a small stance
below a chimney.
|
| 5 |
Michael |
45 m |
Step left into fantastic handjamming, liebacking and chimney moves
(5.8, crux). Wild short walk on a thin flake led to nice 5.6 chimney with loose
debris on floor. Belay on crest (good ledge).
|
| 6 |
Aidan |
70 m |
4th and easy 5th class led up crest to a tunnel to the north side of the
Arete (short downclimb). Hip belay on good ledge.
|
| 7 |
Aidan |
60 m |
Moderate 5th class roamed up the crest to a yellow Alien belay.
|
| 8 |
Michael |
55 m |
Face moves left to a short 5.6 crack, then moderate 5th class on
crest to nice belay.
|
| 9 |
Aidan |
120 m |
4th and easy 5th class led to below the summit block. Simul-climbing
pitch. 5.6 steep climbing gained crest after 4th class ledge traverse.
|
| 10 |
both |
5 m |
Unprotectable 5.6 soloing up and down summit block. Yay!
|
We made one rappel from the summit to the south, then hiked down scree
and boulders. Some careful downclimbing on loose rock and steep snow
got us back down to the base of the route. It seemed to take forever getting
down to below the snowline, due to wet deep snow and a broiling sun.
We lazed on a rock and drank from a lake with icebergs. We thought of
Galen Rowell often as we went by beautiful tarns and boulderfields a few
miles from the car.
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The route is on the steep arete
|
Michael early in the morning
|
The mountain on approach
|
Getting ready to climb
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Michael on the first pitch
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Looking down on the first pitch
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Aidan at the 5.8 chimney pitch
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Michael high on the route
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Aidan on the upper ridge
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Aidan on the summit. Yay!
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Michael on the summit. Yay!
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Aidan rappelling
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Aidan downclimbing, the route on the left
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Coming down, hate to leave!
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