What do I like to do?

I seek adventurous, moderately technical alpine climbs in my own neighborhood. With a busy family and work life, I am not able to make time for expedition mountaineering. I also hate sitting in a tent for days, so I value flexibility in planning, preferably having an alternate goal in a drier region or maybe changing from climbing to hiking if the weather is rainy.

I don't really do "pleasure trips." For me, the relaxation comes as a warm glow at the close of a big adventure. Time is limited, and we must do as much as we can with it! At the same time, I believe laughter and friendship are an essential part of the mountain experience and I value them highly.

I know the mountains are a place of risk and danger. I seek to minimize the risk by travelling light, moving fast, and keeping in practice for moving smoothly over alpine (dangerous) terrain. At the same time, I love to climb traditionally protected routes, where routefinding ability and protection placement skills can be exercised.

I've written articles about alpine climbing on Summitpost here and here.

What are my skills?

• I comfortably lead alpine rock to 5.10b YDS (about VI+ UIAA).
• I will follow "anything," though I prefer routes where I can lead half the pitches.
• On ice, I lead to WI4.
• Familiar and practiced with glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques.
• I am comfortable on loose, exposed alpine terrain, and can solo mid-5th class when
  required.
• I have climbed up and down 2600 meters in a day (though it was tough!). A typical
  mountain day for me will involve 1500-2000 meters of climbing, depending on the
  activity.
• I enjoy long ~12-16 hour days in the mountains, and like an early start.
• Moderate ski touring ability. Ascent/descent of 2000 meters as a day trip.
• Good map/compass/altimeter navigation skills.

What have I done?

Only routes where I did significant or all leading are listed. Ascents are in reverse
chronological order with dates at the beginning and end of each section.

Climbs in the Alps (grades are in UIAA scale)

• Many ski tours in the Stubai, Silvretta, Dolomites, etc.
• Wilder Kaiser "Via Romantica" (VI+)(2009)
• Mont Blanc via Innominata Ridge (D/D+)
• Pordoispitze "Via Fedele" with Dibona finish (V), 25 pitches
• Tofana des Rozes, 3rd Pillar "Costantini/Ghedina" (VI-)
• 3rd Sella Tower, "Vinatzer" (VI-)
• The Schüsselkarspitze, "Peters/Haringer" Route (VI+/A0)
• The Ortler, North Face (D+)
• The Matterhorn, Hörnligrat (AD-)
• Pala di San Martino, Gran Pilaster Route (UIAA IV+)
• Fünffingerspitzen, full traverse (IV, 18 pitches)
• Punta Fiames, Spigolo Jori (V+, 16 pitches)
• Geiselstein, Alte Nordwand (V, 16 pitches)
• Campanile Basso, Fehrmann / Pruess, (V)
• Wilder Kaiser: Totenkirchl, "Kirchlexpress" (VI, although bolted)
• Piz Palue, Nordwand Ostpfeiler
• Ortler, Hintergrat, solo
• Wilder Kaiser: Fleischbank, "Via Classica" (V, although bolted)
• Wildspitze, Nordwand, AI3
• Zugspitze: Jubiläumsgrat, winter
• Zugspitze, Höllental approach, solo, winter
• Dolomites: Grohmannspitze, South Face
• "Walkers Haute Route," solo walk from Zermatt to Chamonix (some cheating)
• Dolomites: Tofana des Roses, South Face Dimai Route (IV+)
• Wilder Kaiser: Predigtstuhl, Nordkante (IV+)
• Dolomites: Langkofel, Nordkante (IV+) (2002)

Cragging and alpine rock in Washington State

• Colchuck Peak, Northeast Buttress (5.8 YDS) (2005)
• Mount Stuart, North Ridge (5.9 YDS)
• Dragontail Peak, Serpentine Arete (5.8 YDS)
• Green Giant Buttress, "Dreamer" (5.9 YDS) (2002)
• Snow Creek Wall "Orbit" (5.8) and "Outer Space" (5.9)
• Prusik Peak, West Ridge (5.7) (1999)
• Index Town Wall: Toxic Shock, Roger's Corner, Princely Ambitions, Great Northern Slab,
  Pisces

Glacier/snow/ice in Washington State

• Mount Redoubt, North Face (2005)
• Picket Range wilderness traverse (glaciers, steep snow, routefinding) - this 7 day
  journey included
  a climb of Mount Fury's North Buttress and Mount Terror's North Face. As of yet I don't think
  this itinerary has been repeated (but I'm crossing my fingers for some friends to do it!)
• Ptarmigan Traverse - 7 days with peakbagging along the way
• Mount Baker, North Ridge - in a long day
• Forbidden Peak, complete North Ridge - in a long day
• Mount Goode (WA), Northeast Buttress
• Chair Peak, North Face and Northeast Buttress (2002)

Alpine rock in California

• Fairview Dome, Regular Route (5.9 YDS) (2003)
• Matthes Crest, complete traverse (5.8 YDS)
• DAFF Dome, West Face (5.9)
• Cathedral Rock and Eichorn Pinnacle (5.7)
• Bear Creek Spire, Northeast Ridge (5.8 YDS)
• Royal Arches (5.9 / A0) (1999)

Alpine rock in Canada

• Sleese Mountain, Northeast Buttress (5.9 YDS) (2005)
• Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Ridge (5.5 YDS) - simul-solo ascent car to car
• McTech Arete (5.10a)
• Pigeon Spire, regular route, solo
• Bugaboo Spire, Northeast Arete (5.8 YDS)
• Snowpatch Spire, "Snowpatch Route" (2003)