Flesichbank "Deulfer" (attempt)

Published on 2007-5-20 by Michael Stanton

Fleischbank, Duelfer Route

May, 2007

Daniel and I tried the Fleischbank Ostwand, but had two problems. After the grade III traverse into the face (snowy, loose, wet), we had a nice grade V pitch, then a daunting move to start the next pitch which we had to aid. (I think a hold fell off). Daniel started worrying about the rest of the route and felt a little sick. He went up for the next pitch, but some crack climbing moves proved too hard. He came down and I went up. I was at the belay of the 6th pitch, where the first VI- traverse crux begins. Daniel came up a bit, but was feeling mentally done-in by this climb, so I lowered him to the previous belay and we prepared to leave. That was one problem, but the second problem may have shut me down too. There was a waterfall running down the face to my left. I think, but I'm not sure, that it may have run across the grade VI traverse too. If so, the amount of water would have made it impossible.

So I rappelled, then we did a long double-rope rappel, then reclimbed back across the entry ramp. We hiked along a protected path to a hut on the south side of the range for a drink, then went home.

We still got some good pictures:

Below the traverse crux on the east face. May, 2007.

Daniel Arndt has led an intimidating traverse deep into the East Face for our attempt at the Hans Dülfer Route. May, 2007.

Our attempt on the Hans Dülfer route on the East Face of Fleischbank didn't work out, but we still had some nice pitches on a nice day. Now to get down...

And this after the snow had mostly melted! In May 2007, there was a winter-like period in the mountains with lots of fresh snow. We wished we had something other than tennis shoes!

On the south side of the Wilder Kaiser, the Gruttenhütte welcomes weary climbers.

From near the Gruttenhütte, looking up and north at the Ellmauer Halt and the long Kopftörlgrat. May, 2007.