City of Rocks with Steve

Published on 2025-7-3 by Michael Stanton

Friends: Steve
Location: City of Rocks, Castle Rocks
Elevation gain: 0m = 0m

Time for a long climbing vacation...

I flew to Boise on the first, Steve picked me up. The next day we drove down to Elba to stay with his buddy Duane. This will be a special trip. I guess I'll make trip reports every few days...already climbed many pitches, I'm in danger of forgetting the glorious granite. Already have many impressions of amazing people. Hopefully I can do justice to the gift of the whole thing.

July 3

We started things out right when Steve put me on the sharp end for "Strawberry Fields (5.9)", one of Duane's routes on Elephant Rock. I hadn't been climbing much in the last few months, so my toes and fingertips started their conditioning right here.


Below the fantastic climb "Strawberry Fields"...

This is a wonderful climb. Tough slab moves at the start, then a slight overhang at a rectangle of white rock marked by gunshot wounds. I went left above this, then on TR later I went right of a hueco below the anchor.

Then we moved over to the Radicella crag for "Whim-Z" and "Petrodactyl" (both 5.7). We met up with Duane and Dotti to do laps on these nice pitches. In the years since Steve and I climbed together, he's become a keen route-setter, and these routes were a nice introduction to his style. It's all about fun, "whimsy," and safety. Steve is in the game for the long term.

It got hot, so we repaired to the general store in Elba for ice cream, then drove up to Lake Cleveland, which we walked around. Then sat on the summit of Mount Harrison and had a long chat with a local guy.


Lake Cleveland


Steve on Mount Harrison


Wonderful place of rest and respite thanks to Duane and Steve...

July 4

Today we headed out early to climb "Oh My Gosh (5.7/8)" on Castle Rock, another route from Duane. Two amazing pitches! Then we did a bunch of routes on the Egg Wall, also from Duane. They were:


Steve on "Oh My Gosh," looking down on the belay for pitch 2


Looking at folks on "Zinger" which I couldn't wait to get on


Passing by the peaks around Hostess Gully on the way to the Egg Wall...

How cool is it that we climbed these things, then repaired to Duane's place for an incredible home cooked meal? That man can cook. A combination of spices and fresh vegetables that I never had before...

We heard no fireworks (too much fire danger), but I never felt more proud to be in my country than I do now.

Strangely, I didn't love America until I left it. Or maybe I simply didn't know. What I felt. Who I was and am.


Scenery from a route on the Egg Wall.


A similar shot

July 5

Another early start! This time back to the 'City for the Drilling Fields, where we climbed more routes from Duane:


Steve approaches the Drilling Fields.

Basically, I'd lead up a route, then Steve would do it with draws in place. Then he'd put up a lead, and I'd re-lead with the draws in place. All of these were excellent climbs, featuring a lower angle slab, then a sometimes rather alarming steepening wall that becomes a face climb with occasional "plates" to grab just when it seems impossible.

Next, Steve put me on his climb "Aurora (5.9)". We just did the first pitch today.

I hung on the rope a couple times, first at a tricky slab move, then when I had to transition to a blank-looking slab left of some good holds I was relunctant to say goodbye to. I followed the pitch again, then worked on those cruxes, thinking next time I can get it clean. I'll be back! I'm also interested in the pitches above.


This whole wall is full of great climbs made by Duane...


Steve pulling down the rope from a pitch we did on the left side of the wall...

Then, I got a trial by fire on "Chimera (5.10a)", which I couldn't finish. I was doing a chimney technique, but couldn't escape it. We sent Steve up who made it look easy. I followed the route, enjoying it very much but still struggling with the lower part. This one will take some work for me...

July 6

Today we climbed a great 3 pitch route called "Zinger (5.8)" in Hostess Gully at Castle Rocks. Steep walls were defanged by amazing plates and chicken-heads. This was a real favorite for me. We'd been concerned about cold, since the area is shaded, but the wind stayed low so it was fine. We made 3 rappels to the base, on a line of anchors climbers left of the climbing line.


Steve climbs up to the first belay on "Zinger"


Higher on "Zinger"...

Then we walked over to the Crack House. We did 3 trad lines here -- each of us led the climb, cleaned the gear, then the other guy would do the same. This is a great way to get maximum practice placing gear and crack climbing, something I don't get much of in Old Europa!

First "Gargoyle Gardens (5.7)", a delightful but too-short climb with a mix of cams and offset nuts for pro.

Second, "No is Hard to Say (5.8)", a long pitch we were worried that we couldn't lower off of with a 70 meter rope. But it worked fine. A nice adventure with large gear, which I quickly ran out of, having to get creative in the upper section below the anchors.


Admiring my collection of pieces placed on one of the Crackhouse routes...


Steve climbs up a route at the Crackhouse.

Third, "Dark Rock, Good Rock (5.8)", probably the friendliest of the routes for its nice stances at each protection point. Though it did have a sustained multi-move hand and foot crack (at least the way I did it!). I climbed to the top of the tower, then had to downclimb 15 feet and go off to the right for the anchor. Cleaning the route was tough because I had a near-horizontal traverse from the anchor over to my last piece at the base of the final crack. Steve also found that anchor awkward and began thinking through the administrative processes of adding one right above our line!

We'd done enough for the day, but I had just enough in me to climb "Jug-a-Lug (5.10a)", a line that Steve encouraged me to climb. This was so much fun -- entirely too short, and very, very good! Overhangs and delicious well-formed plates.


Looking down one of the routes on the crackhouse...

July 7

Today we went to the Breadloaves with Dotti and climbed three fun routes. First was "Muffin Top (5.8)", a great warm-up in the morning. Then, we moved left to climb "Built for Comfort (5.9)", a neat route with a tricky set of moves in the middle. Dotti had been working on this route for a while, and it really made her day that she got the moves clean. Her concentration and energy and then excitement at correctly finishing the climb lifted us all up. Some people are just infectious!


Dotti climbing on "Muffin Top"


Steve and Dotti joking around


The Breadloaves from a distance


Steve and Dotti...

For our final climb we hopped on "Love Handles (5.8)", which I quite enjoyed for the way it traversed gradually left after crossing over a crack.

What a great place!


Michael on "Built for Comfort"


Around the crux moves on "Built for Comfort"


Michael high on "Love Handles"

Before driving back to Boise, we were invited to dinner by Kim ("RKM" on Mountain Project). We had a great time talking about the Dolomites and other areas we had in common. I was so impressed by the community out here at the City...it spans decades of history and people, like a giant and graceful web.


Steve scrambles on a high rock of the park


Steve, Michael and Kim after a fantastic dinner

We said bye to Duane and Dotti, and headed off into the sunset, looking at the sugar beat processing plants in the dusk...