Hyalite Ice Cragging

Published on 2026-01-03 by Michael Stanton

Robert suggested another day of ice cragging -- sure!

We hiked up to the 2nd tier of climbs above the Amphitheater region, and pulled up to Mummy II (WI3+). I led this one. The longish (to me) vertical pillar at the end intimidated me, and I hung on a screw to get the strength to fire the rest. I placed three screws pretty near each other on that pillar. Tremendous fun.

I brought Robert up to the bolts, then we walked around with our rope and tag line to set up a top-rope on Scepter (WI5-). We each took a lap on it. Quite wet in places, and well beat-out from prior climbers, the route felt much easier than I thought it would. It was like a jungle gym in places, reaching around and up to big "jugs" for the tools, also, quite forgiving for feet, with expansive holes in which to slot them.

Michael on "Mummy II"

Rappelling in for a TR of "The Scepter"

From here we walked around the Frigid Aire (WI4), which Robert led. It had a couple of vertical sections separated by a lower angle skirt. He left the screws in place so I could "pink point" the route. This was great fun. I really appreciated the last 1-2 screws, as the terrain was vertical and the ice a bit thin, aside from the column on the right Robert had wisely used for the gear.

Next we got on The Matrix (WI4-), which sometimes needs some rock gear, though on this day there was sufficient ice. What a fun climb! Robert brought up a haul line. I reached him at the belay, then abseiled on that line. We saw that he could abseil on the single lead line with stretch, only just barely! He could touch down at the base of the initial vertical pillar perfectly with stretch. A really nice cave to belay and hang out in for snacks and hot tea.

Michael on "Frigid Aire" clipping screws!

Looking down from a TR of Feeding the Cat

Lastly, we climbed Feeding the Cat (WI3+). Again Robert led it, and though I was keen to "pink point" again (how fun to avoid screw placements, could become a bad habit!), he dissuaded me because the last moves to the anchor were in slick, bottomless mud. So I top-roped the climb. It was great. I'm feeling more comfortable on the ice, and have a better sense of a good stick. I also actually swing the tools with speed from time to time, though my aim still frustrates me.

We then did a hike around to reach the Genesis icefall. A very Montana hike with deep snow, delicate cramponing over and among deadfalls, narrow ledge following ducking under branches, and so on. We saw the G2 fall, then hiked down to G1, then the car. We saw the place where an unfortunate fellow slipped on the trail the day before, thankfully recovering from his long fall in the hospital. Folks said that snow was balling up in crampons a lot, and there is a very exposed trail where it happened.